1. Apply a medium to deep matte shadow over the entire protruding lid. Anything smoky like grays, browns, burgundies, etc. work especially well.

2. Line the eyes, top and bottom depending on what you like. If you have a lower lid that protrudes as well you should definitely line bottom too. Use a creamy liner that easily blends into the shadow.

3. Apply a slightly darker shadow along the crease, blending it just above the brow bone. This will help diminish that hard brow bone appearance.

4. And lastly, never use anything but a fleshy or neutral highlight. You could even pass on the highlight if you’re over it. Now doesn’t she look gorgeous? Don’t forget mascara!

]]> http://www.makefacebeauty.com/making-face-eye-shadow-for-a-pop-eye/feed/ 0 http://www.makefacebeauty.com/making-face-body-makeup/ http://www.makefacebeauty.com/making-face-body-makeup/#comments Tue, 20 Jul 2010 01:44:46 +0000 Sally http://www.makefacebeauty.com/?p=640 Crunches since Christmas, 15 collective hours spent searching for the bathing suit that makes your boobs the highest, your butt the roundest, and your stomach the flattest they can be. Not to mention the pretty penny on beautiful bronzers and luminescent tinted moisturizers. And you’re still not done.

Now that you’ve dedicated such time and money to the cause of summer radiance and are all suited up, you can barely see yourself in the mirror for the blinding glare of your white belly reflected back at you. The bruise on your thigh is a nasty reminder of that drunken ride at the rodeo bar last weekend, and the shadows from your butt cellulite seem a touch exaggerated in this lighting.

It’s time to take this project to the next level. One choice is a good self-tanner like Jergens Natural Glow or a tinted lotion like Body Bling by Scott Barnes or DuWop by Bath and Body Works. They even out the skin tone, add a little summer shimmer, and make imperfections a little less imperfect. A self-tanner will last longer and will leave you free to frolic in the deep end. A tinted moisturizer will add a nice glow for chillin out maxin relaxin.

Another choice for those bruises, spider veins, and other unsightliness, try an actual body makeup. Spray-on is super easy like Sally Henson’s Airbrush Legs or a liquid like MAC’s Face and Body Foundation. Either choose a color to match your skin tone and spot conceal, or go a touch deeper and cover the entire skin surface to blend. Take care, waterproof might not be an option.

Or just screw it. Sometimes slightly imperfect is unique, pretty and approachable. Whatever you choose, take care to avoid the orange hues…

Loose Powder

The main purpose of loose powder is to set other makeup in place for a longer lasting look, so if that’s your goal go for a loose. Translucent or colored both work.

Loose actually yields a heavier coverage than pressed. If you’re looking for a powder to cover flaws a colored loose powder is best.

Loose Powder Application Tips

For a super heavy coverage like for photographs and videos try a powder puff and ‘crush’ the powder into the skin. For a lighter coverage to set the makeup or create a more natural look, use a powder brush filled with the powder and shake off the access. Then, lightly brush over the skin in a circular motion.

Pressed Powder

For touch-ups throughout the day, the convenient answer is pressed powder because of ease of portability. It’s also lighter than the loose powder so makes for a less ‘done’ look as you blot the shine throughout the day.

Pressed Powder Application Tips

If getting the grease out is your main issue, use a blotting paper or tissue to remove access oil first. You don’t want layer on top of layer of powder and grease shellac. For lighter coverage, use a makeup sponge instead of the puff that it may come with.

Blush Brush: This can be flat or round with tapered bristles or flat bristles. These options are choice, and nothing else. Go to a store that has a lot (like a department store or Sephora) to see which you think works best with your face and how you apply it. Bigger and fancier is not always better.  This one is by Laura Mercier.

Kabuki or Bronzer Brush: This is more stiff and plush than a blush or powder brush. It’s use is for a more specific and intense version of whatever you’d like to apply in that width. Personally, I find the distribution to often be more even than with the blush or powder brush. This one is by Smashbox. Many have stubbier handles.

Concealer Brush. These are synthetic bristled brushes that come in a variety of sizes depending on the use. For under-eye circles you may want a medium one and for pimple a very small one. A lip bush will also work like a small concealer brush if you want to save a few bucks. The small one is by Laura Mercier and the medium one by Benefit.

The Fan Brush: This brush is definitely the most intriguing looking. It’s uses can vary, but primarily it’s used for cleaning up eyeshadow powder fall-out. Some like the shape to add highlighter to the top edges of the cheekbones too. It’s probably one of the least necessary brushes for everyday at-home makeup. This one is by Sephora Collection.

Paddle Eyeshadow Brush: This flat and rounded brush is great for applying eyeshadow all over the lid. Use it as you would like painting a picture; a flat brush to fill in space. It’s also great for brushing highlight color downward from the brow bone. This one is by NARS.

Hard Angle Brush: Short and stiff, this brush is wonderful for filling in eyebrows as well as blending powder or pencil eyeliner. I use this brush tons! This one is by Makeup Forever.

Eyeliner Brush: Angled, pointed, or flat this brush is softer than the hard angle brush and used for cream or liquid eyeliner. What version you like depends on what’s easiest for you to use. The pointed one is by Shu Umemura, the angled one by The Balm, and the flat one by Bare Escentuals.

Blender or Crease Brush: True to it’s name, this brush is for blending and creasing. The point is great to draw the crease line while the feathered sides blend it in. Or you can draw a more precision line with another brush and use this one to blend it. Same is true for blending along the lash line, etc. This one is by Stila.

Those are what I find to be the basics, excluding the fan which I threw in just to demystify it. By the way, there is no shame in checking out the craft store for great paint brushes that come in exactly the same shapes and sizes as the brushes above and not even close to the same price tag- especially the eyeliner brushes.

Before I get started on makeup for any bride, mother, maid, or model I always prepare the skin first.  A painter wouldn’t start a masterpiece on a torn, cracked, or dirty canvas-and your makeup will definitely be a masterpiece.

1. Remove all bits of old makeup. Unless you’re going for a grunge makeup look, it’s always best to have a fresh start.

2. Exfoliate any dry bits of skin that hang, dangle or crust with a washcloth or exfoliator pad like Buf-Puf.

3. Moisturize the skin. I feel this needs to be done at least in certain areas of pretty much everyone. It really takes a super oily person not to need any lube on at least a few patches. Use sunblock if you plan to be in the sun.

4. Apply a vitamin E lip balm that’s not too greasy. By the time you’re ready to add lips it’ll be nice and soaked in.

5. Check for eye and nose boogers.

6. I like to include eyebrow examination and grooming in this category. You can view my previous post Making Face: Eyebrows! for guidance.

Before:

After:

Getting sussed up isn’t always logical, no. Running errands with no makeup, no biggie. But then you run into a client, the potential sperm donor for your babies, or someone you haven’t seen in years and you find yourself saying ‘I’m just out running around today! Just left the gym!” I’ve always set my standards pretty low, but seriously am going to try to take it up a notch from here on out.

Here’s my minimum of makeface checklist:

1. Under-eye circles or other major skin discolorations covered.  They’re the boldest display of a no makeup day and can make you look tired or depressed (even) when you’re not. A light concealer patted in should blend enough with your skin not to need it to be combined with foundation or powder or anything. Dab a lil of that concealer over any pinkness you may have around the nose area too. If it’s too thick, combine it with a little moisturizer.
2. Blush it up. A little rosey cheek goes a log way in making your face.
3. Chapstick or gloss. Rough lips seem… unhealthy. And no judging here, I’m an avid lip-biter myself who, in a weird nervous habit rivalry, could tango with any hardcore nail biter or hair twirler and quite possibly win.
4. Mascara. This one is optional based on your needs. The youngins’ don’t really need it as much as the more ‘sophisticated’ ladies whose eyes might be getting a little lost.

That’s it. That’s the minimum of makeface to keep you classy in the event of an incidental run-in. So easy, you really can’t not.

For another version of kind of the same thing, check out my previous post Making Face: How To Fake A Face.

This guy clearly doesn’t feel a need for a minimum of anything, including body hair. To each their own…

http://geraniumkisses.wordpress.com/2009/02/07/today-in-san-francisco/

An unnamed friend and I scored our first hoard of makeup, foundation and more, in the 7^th grade by taking the makeup out of it’s packages (to ditch the sensors) and slipping the products into any pocket, purse, etc. We did this fairly often at the CVS in Burke, VA and had acquired quite the collection by the time we got cocky and moved up to bras at K-Mart. Our bra bust was the end of it all, although we didn’t get in any real trouble because everyone was feeling a little awkward and illegal about making us take off our shirts to expose the merchandise. Stealing is wrong and bad by the way.

But we really got to sample the product range. Foundation seemed like a must-do for covering our pimples. Of course after every class this was followed up with a slathering of colored powder. Lord knows why. By chorus later in the day we were ready for lotion on the knees and a re-curl of the eyelashes. No wonder I had to get an algebra tutor that year. Between the makeup and my note-passing schedule there really wasn’t much time for studies.

What I learned from that product-intense year I can back up by my ‘professionalism’ now. When breaking into the wonderful world of foundation makeup, always remember that less is more. I’ve always believed that a big pile of makeup looks just as bad as a pimple and definitely more vein. Start with a few shades of concealer so you can mix and match them to blend perfectly with your skin just over the imperfection. Dust your face with a little translucent powder to help it stay longer.

A tinted moisturizer is a fantastic way to even out slight tonal imperfections without looking made-up. Try Neutrogena’s Glow Sheers for a summery glow.

Full-on foundation is great for those with uneven skin tones, which typically happens later on in life. Also for covering full-face issues like TONS of acne, rosacea or a lot of wrinkles. In those scenarios use a primer first. Smashbox’s Color Correcting Primer in green is fantastic for people with a lot of red/pink tones to cover.

-Elizabeth M.

With patience and dedication! Seriously though I do have a few tips for doing it to your self. That would make a great video…

For a beginner, the best way to apply false eyelashes is before any other makeup because if you screw up you’ll have to take off all your makeup and start from scratch. And be sad.

1. Curl and mascara your own lashes first

2. Hold the fake lashes to your lash line to make sure they fit and trim from outer edge if you need to. Don’t actually trim the lash hairs, just the length of the entire strip to match the width of your eye.

3 To keep from getting the glue on the lashes try putting it on the back of your hand or on the lash packaging and drag the lashes delicately through it. Some people find they can control the distribution of the glue better this way. You seriously don’t need that much.

4. Wait a few seconds. The glue is better when it dries a touch first.

5. Start by matching the outer edge and aim to place them right on top of the base of your natural lash line. Tilt your head backward so that you can see yourself with your eyes slightly closed.

6. While it’s still a little wet, tweek it into place with your fingers or a tool, making sure they blend with your lashes. Careful not to have glue on your fingers.

7. Stay still, looking down at the same spot for a few minutes while the lashes dry.

8. If you feel you need it, go over both with another layer of mascara to blend them together.

Definitely get short lashes. I think Ardell’s ‘Sweeties’ are cute on pretty much everyone and their #109s give great classy drama. To emphasize small or heavily lidded eyes, try Shu Uemura’s Black Focal (right pic).

Give yourself plenty of time to chill out and relax while you do it too. I went to a wedding last summer that I really really wanted to be super hot at because it was high school people I hadn’t seen in 10 years. With the travel and such we barely had time to get ready so I spazed and put on the lashes too high so that they looked fake. I didn’t even have time left to take them off because the van was there to pick everyone up! I looked stupid and then had to tell people I’m a makeup artist all night. So yeah, leave yourself plenty of time or else bail on the lashes agenda.

Hope your falsies are everything you hoped they’d be!

-Even out discolorations on the eyelid such as veins so that the shadow has an even appearance.

-Increase the pigmentation capabilities of the shadow by creating a layer for it to ‘stick’ to.

-Help the shadow last longer by creating a barrier between the skin’s pores and the shadow.

What is an eye base? Well, my lovies, it’s a thick concealer-esk cream. In fact, go ahead and use your concealer if you don’t want to buy another product. Some say using foundation works too, but personally I find thinner consistencies to be less effective.

There is an exception to the eye base rule, and that’s when using cream shadows. It’s really not a big deal either way, but personally I’d stick the cream shadow right to the lid, maybe with a bit of foundation underneath if anything. If mixing cream and shadow, it really depends which is first. If powder, go for the base. If cream, don’t waste it.

Sometimes, if I’m nervous on a job, I forget the eye base…. and quickly remember with that first brushing of disappointing shadow. That sucks because I don’t want to say ‘Oh, I forgot.’. Then everyone will be nervous. In these instances, don’t try and go over the shadow with the base and layer a fresh start. Trust me, it’s better for all involved if you go ahead and suck it up and wipe it off.

To ace that base, start at the lash line and cover the entire lid up to the brow line. Use whatever you fancy- a brush, finger, sponge, etc. Done.

Here’s a few products to try:

Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion

Estee Lauder Double Wear Say-In-Place Eye Shadow Base

Almay’s Bright Eyes Eye Base

My Makeup Blog says that Art Deco’s Eye Base trumps all, so you might want to check that out.

I have been on set for beauty how-to editorials and cosmetic product demonstration videos (I’m not going to name names) and not a single ‘before’ model was free of makeup. Here’s how to make it look like you’re not wearing any makeup … to  fake a ‘real’ face:

-Moisturize the face so that you have an even canvas.  Foundation is too heavy, so you’ll have to take some time and spot conceal. Use a cream concealer that is exactly the same tone as your skin. Use a little brush, either synthetic or natural is fine to me, and paint over your imperfections. I like to dab on top of a discoloration and then brush around it to blend it in. Then I pat it with my finger for good luck.

-To accentuate the eyes without lining them or wearing mascara, take eyeliner the color of your lashes and smudge it along your inner upper lid. This requires lifting the lid a little and darkening that pink water line. Make sure your pencil is clean and disinfected. Then lightly take the pencil exactly to the lashes, darkening the flesh in between the hairs. It may be fine just like that, but if you’d like to add to the bottom as well, try a blond liner between the lashes and leave the tear line alone. Curl the lashes if you like, but leave them mascara-free or use a clear mascara. You can use the same clear mascara to brush through your eyebrows too.

-For a natural-looking sexy lip with even pigmentation, start with a lip balm. Nothing greasy or your lips will be slick and shiny. Try a vitamin e stick or even Blistex in the stick. Then choose a lipstick or cream blush that is the same tone as the berry in your lips. Using a finger, dab the color into your lips. Smudgy your lips together to make sure the color is even.

-To liven up the face, use a touch of the same lipstick or cream blush and tap it into the apples of your cheeks, using your fingers, for a bit of flush. Just a tad, now.

After all that, you may get comments along the lines of ‘You’re so lucky that you don’t have to wear makeup’ or ‘You’ve got great skin tone’. No one would say that to a face full of makeup.